Sunday 26 April 2015

Spring coat I. – too many options

In order to give me a bit of a challenge, I have decided to sew a spring coat.

First, I have been missing a real spring coat for a few years now, the only one I own comes from Asos petite, but it is missing any form (it is just too large for me) and interfacing, since it feels like wearing a simple shirt. So basically, each year I go directly from winter wool coats to simple blazers and jackets.
Second, I need to push myself in terms of my sewing skills and dresses are no longer a challenge for me.
Third, I have subscribed for the MMM 2015 challenge and having a spring coat will enable me to wear something me-made almost every day (no, this is not cheating).

Anyhow, it feels like a big chunk of sewing so I tend not to sew during the work-week (even if I have 2-3 hours free), while when sewing a small thing, I would certainly worked that way. So I have established a planning to make sure I progress and do not get somehow “blocked” by the task scale. (and I am not even talking about thinking about my future projects…)

The coat should be ready by May 13th, just in time for my mini-vacation, which gives me exactly 2 free week-ends which meant:
  • making my test model and cutting the fashion fabric by Friday, April 24th
  • sewing the coat exterior by Sunday, April 26th
  • sewing lining part by May 8th
  • completing the whole coat by May 10th


So far, so good, but for one thing.

Initially, I have chosen Vogue 8884 and sewn the test model. Only then I realized that despite all the adjustments I can do, the coat would not be as adjusted as I wished. So out with the test model, in with copying the RTW. I have 2 really nice winter coats coming from Benetton, both are just 2 seasons apart and are quite similar. Most importantly, they fit! OK, being perfectionist, I would maybe take away 1-2 centimeters on the torso length.
So copying it is, I made a combination of both coats, with the torso cutting in scallops and flaps.




And now for the planning: Here is the result on Sunday, 8 PM, but the day is not finished yet :o) Wish me luck!

Tuesday 14 April 2015

Me-Made-May 2015


I, B-rouchka from http://b-rouchka.blogspot.fr/, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I endeavour to wear me-made clothes each day for the duration of May 2015. Looking forward to this challenge! 


Sunday 12 April 2015

Pocket skirt

Another quick project before I dig in my big spring coat project. It has been some time I have sewn a skirt, so here we go, one little for spring.

I found a gorgeous brown wool fabric with little orange threads in it (on most of the pictures the colour is more brown-grey; in reality it is a nice warm brown), it is supposed to be suit wool, but after ironing it, I suspect there is something else blended in. Anyhow, I still have some more 3 meters of it so will probably try to make a whole suit from it.

I have chosen Burda 104-02/2010 which was even available in size 34. I made my muslin and it fitted. I would say no big surprise, the bottom pieces are rather easy to fit for me and the skirt has an A-line, but it was very pleasant to concentrate on other things, like the details:

First is the interfacing of pockets – I did not use fusible interfacing this time, but a strip of muslin fabric to reinforce the pocket edge.

Second is an interfacing technique I used on the belt: I cut the pieces in the fashion fabric, muslin AND organza. The organza and muslin are then sewn together and attached to the fashion fabric. It gives the belt real form and prevents it from wrinkling.

Third, the invisible zip, supported with muslin strips alongside the seams


The skirt is lined with light cotton-silk, and finished according to my usual standards.


I am really proud of seam matching, invisible zip and the whole result, so I am pretty sure I will be sewing this pattern again in summer.


Inspiration: do I need to be inspired?
Pattern: Burda 104-02/2010
Pattern changes: none !!!
Technique: pockets, belt interfacing
Fabric: brown wool (blend?)
Time to Complete: a week-end
Total Cost: 14 EUR